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The farm’s high point is situated in the middle of some of the most wild and untamed countryside of Andalucia.
For as far as the eye could see was greenery – a wondrous mix of pines, chestnuts and oaks – and a few white dots that were the nearby villages of Farajan and Juzcar.
We came to visit his Iberian black pigs but, as expected, they were nowhere in sight.
Then a horn blew a guttural, deep sound that reverberated for miles in the valley.
The first thing I heard was nothing. Slowly, a distant sound became a heavy noise and out of the undergrowth came perhaps thirty black Iberian porks.
They were delighted to see him and came over to greet us. Then they jumped in a muddy pond that was right next to us.
“They love it to de-stress and cool down,” he tells me, adding they were easily the ‘happiest, most contented’ pigs in the world. And who am I to argue?
It turns out Jose’s business LanGenal only has around 155 of these wonderful free range pigs… and in order to be able to produce the best quality ‘Jamon Iberico de Bellota’ he cannot have many more.
He explains that there are not enough chestnuts or acorns for everyone, and the rules must be strictly followed. “Luckily, we have other delicacies such as wild olives this year that are in abundance. “They are spoilt for choice.”
The end result was some of the best jamon that I have eaten in the last year.
Jose sends his pigs to Guijuelo near Salamanca to be dried for up to three years before he can sell them.
The wait for a return is horrendously long, and to get fatter he has to purchase up to 200 piglets per year.
Jose, who has been a pig-farmer for almost a century now, is the third generation. He tells me that he must do estate tours with wine and tapas to finish to keep the business going.
He adds, “I had twelve Dutchmen from Torremolinos today.” “They loved it and couldn’t believe there was somewhere as wild just an hours inland from Torremolinos.”
As autumn sets in and temperatures drop, the Genal Valley, between the Costa del Sol and Ronda, becomes a vibrant patchwork of reds, oranges and yellows.
Nowhere is this more true than the ‘Copper Forest’ as golden leaves fall to the ground and blanket forest floors.
The incredible mountain road (A397) begins to be visible when you reach the third quarter of the way.
This is one of the best views of mountains in Spain. It features two rows of stunning peaks that meander off into the distance, over 50km.
The Genal Valley is below you. If you turn off at Puerto El Madrono early, you will not only be a few seconds slower, you will also miss the dramatic sea of chestnut trees that appears as a background.
It is better to turn right just before the Mirador De La Rueda, and then head towards the former Moorish villages Igualeja or Pujerra.
The evergreen mass literally explodes with saffron and terracotta as you turn the corner into Pujerra.
This is a small part of the Bosque De Cobre that stretches from Cartajima to Parauta.
You will find that as you walk out of any of these villages, the sunlight is reflected off of corridors of amber-colored trees.
You’ll be able to feel the heat as you walk, and you will be enchanted with the falling leaves from mid-November to early December.
The best walks are those that take you out of Juzcar (the former Smurf village), a blue-washed village, or as far as whitewashed Jubrique.
If you’re looking for the perfect place to stay, make sure that you book Los Castanos Hotel in Cartajima. It is run by award-winning hoteliers Frank & Antje.
The German couple arrived in Brussels a few short years ago with decades of experience in politics, both at home and abroad. They also had two children with them.
They are the masters of looking after their guests with a superb breakfast and a ‘surprise dinner’ in advance and there is a great selection of local wines.
Frank, a former lawyer who studied in the UK and then moved to Brussels for a career in politics, explains that “the hotel should feel like a home from the moment you enter.” “Not fancy at all, but we do offer our guests an evening surprise 3-course dinner with influences from Israel Greece Italy Morocco, and Andalucia.”.
The valley
Genal Valley is home to 12 unique villages. Each village has its own distinctive differences.
In each, you’ll find a couple of restaurants and places to stay. All are proud of the chestnuts they produce as well as their local cheeses.
You can find a variety of artisan markets in Alpandeire, and the church where Saint Frey Leopoldo was born is world-famous.
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