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THE Valle de las Pedroches is famous for some of the finest pork in Europe. Finding a restaurant that is truly outstanding can be difficult.
COVAP is the local association in Pozoblanco. Jamon Ibérico Karen Bistro, however, is an exception. Unexpected gem
Pozoblanco might not be the most beautiful of towns, but its bistro is situated in a charming and old townhouse.
The interior is a fascinating space, with vaulted and Roman brick arches. Boater hats are displayed, as well as close-up pictures of the chef’s favourite dishes.
The atmosphere is set with floor-to-ceiling uplighting and modern jazz music, and the sight of sous chefs sporting ‘50 Best Chefs’ jackets certainly raises expectations.
The dining experience begins with a ‘false cornetto’ a true tour de force It is an explosion of Arabic Mazamorro; a rich mixture of almonds with bread and olive oil, dating back to Al Andaluz’s era, when the region ruled a third the world.
Although a seven-course meal is reasonably priced, it’s not the best value. menu del día Arriving late meant being directed toward the a la carte menu. It was easy to eat, with the tuetano calf’shin and steak tartare.
The waitress provided me with sound advice. She advised me to choose a lighter dish, which was a sardine and pepper coca, with fig chutney, rather than a heavier, more expensive mushroom dish.
The black-pudding croquette was delivered with a ham slice and a piece mother dough bread. It came with the instructions: “Eat your food with your fingers.”
Although the rich tastes were rewarding, a pair of new shorts suffered a slight injury.
Next, the Coca – a sort of royal tostada – was a beauty, topped with edible flowers and watercress over fresh sardine and figs. The perfect balance between sweet and sour was achieved.
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Mains are dominated by meat, which is primarily sourced from happy Iberian black pigs roaming the Sierra Morena mountain range.
This imperious mountain range – the border between Castille and Andalucia – is home to the acorn-fed pigs that produce the world’s best ham.
It was obvious what to choose: roast sucking pig.lechón IbéricaIt is a tasty sauce made with orange and tomato.
The arrival of the COVAP brand coincided with a group uniformed employees who were finishing their lunch. This highlighted both its local and global importance.
The piglet served was rich and succulent. It was also half the size of the piglet typically found in northern cuisine. Mesons Castilla, the crisp scratching was the best part.
I made a dessert that reflected the Arabic heritage of the area: an ice cream created from Montilla Moriles sweet wine, blended with licorice.
Before leaving, I chat with Carlos, who has run the bistro for seven years and already holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand (‘red meals’ recommendation).
He mentioned his friendship with three-Michelin-star chef Paco Morales of Noor in Cordoba city, but insisted his style aligns more with Benito Gomez at Bardal in Ronda – a commitment to honest, local ingredients I can certainly attest to.
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Carlos is hopeful about the possibility of a more prestigious award: “We had inspectors come to our house at least three times in this past year, and we’re definitely on their radar.” “Fingers crossed that a star will be on its way.”
Given the incredible value – €39.95 for a set lunch, or €50 for my three courses – I secretly hope the star doesn’t materialise, keeping this steal accessible.
Montoro – History and heart on the Guadalquivir
The journey from Pozoblanco must continue on to Montoro. This town is renowned for being a great place to spot the Iberian Lynx, which was once a highly endangered species, in the heavily-protected surrounding countryside.
For accommodation, I recommend the ancient olive mill, Molino la Nava, nestled deep in the rolling hills and rivers – a truly off-the-beaten-track spot with welcoming staff and comfortable, simple rooms.
Montoro, a town that is little visited and underrated, can be easily overshadowed and overlooked by other imperial cities such as Seville, Cordoba and Granada as well as other secondary gems, like Priego Cordoba and Ecija.
This is a shame, because Montoro, which has a long history as a strategic point of crossing the Guadalquivir River, has a rich and interesting past.
The old town of Seville is fascinating, even if it doesn’t have the same architectural splendour as its rivals.
Heading towards lunch, you cross the charming, ancient bridge – said to be Roman – from where Columbus is fabled to have set off to find the New World.
Sol Zapatilla, Dining on History
A table at the restaurant Sol Zapatilla with a view of the bridge will give you a sense of Montoro’s historic importance.
The menu offers a fascinating look at local cuisine with many ingredients that are grown locally. ‘huerta ecológica’ Below the bridge, you can enjoy a stroll in an organic garden.
Manuel Cabrera, the owner, proudly showed off his garden and free-range chickens. He boasted, “It is full of goodness throughout the year.” He invites customers to pick their own vegetables in the summer to be prepared according to their personal style.
Miguel’s family has been making this Marrueco with chorizo since Arabic times. He explained its ‘unique secret spice’, which gave the mostly pumpkin dish a subtle ори мен flavour.
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When asked if I wanted it spicier, a ‘yes’ resulted in a tiny thimbleful of the secret blend that added real joy – though a single drop more would have been explosive.
Montoro has a long history that predates even the Moors. Known as ‘Epora’ in Roman times, the ancient Via Augusta, which linked Spain and Italy, runs right past the restaurant door. Manuel insists, “Travellers have been eating here since the Caesars’ days.”
The menu features four mushroom dishes, a nice-looking asparagus dish, and a seemingly ancient dish. There are four mushroom dishes on the menu, along with a lovely looking asparagus dish and an ancient-looking dish. vinagreta With chickpeas.
As Cordoba is known for its pork dishes, you can expect to see a lot of rabo de Toro (oxtail). This time I opted for the asparagus and was very pleased with it.
Dessert was the Al Andaluz era Bienmesabe. I chose the pear and almond tart. Although the appearance of the dish was not appealing, it tasted delicious. It should have been served hot and not lukewarm.
Chef Mari was the last person I met, and she managed two dozen free-range hens. She insisted on presenting a collection of eggs – a genuine oil painting of colours – a warm finale before setting off for home.
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