Jon Clarke, Olive Press editor, writes that Ronda’s dining scene has improved in the past two decades since I lived there.

It might seem counterintuitive, but the secret to Ronda is to explore the industrial estate.

Kutral is the spiritual home to Argentinian Martin Abramzon. He trained in the Basque Country at the three Michelin star Martin Berasategui before falling in Love and making Ronda home.

This is a hip, trendy spot that you will need to reserve. It’s where the locals go for the best steak in town.

A dining experience that is both exciting and intimate.

Kutral, which fittingly means ‘fire’ or ‘hearth’, is built around a monumental Argentinian-style parilla The magic happens on the grill 

Martin serves up only the best cuts of meat, which are then expertly grilled over an open fire, giving them a distinctive smoky taste. 

There’s more to the cuisine than just steaks. You should also expect good local vegetable dishes and, of course, the best. empanadas Not to mention the wonderful wines.

Martin, one of the world’s most experienced foodies, knows the Spanish restaurant industry inside and out. It is no surprise that he ran the kitchen for Ronda’s former Michelin starred restaurant Tragabuches.

Don’t expect him tell you that he has cooked for celebrities such as Gareth Bale and Robert de Niro in Marbella, and also nearby hills.

He insists that Ronda is the star. “There are so much good food available now, and the variety is increasing.”

The mountain town in which I lived for 20 years has changed a lot.

Since launch Olive Press In 2006, the newspaper of Ronda revealed that it had become a real melting-pot at the end the rainbow.

The Serrania de Ronda is a cauldron full of high-quality ingredients, and it’s a cutting board for talented chefs.

Having travelled far and wide to interview Spain’s best chefs – and usually trying their food – few places equal the joy of a tapas tour in Ronda in the heart of winter.

If you are looking for a blow-up seat down meal, you can go to places like Bardal which has two Michelin stars or Pedro Romero who have been serving the best Rabo de Toro since nearly 50 years.

The kitchen of Benito Gomez in Bardal is a close second.

Catalan dynamo who is widely regarded as Spain’s future Three Michelin-star maestro. His Serrania kitchen is a true representation of the best of Serrania.

He trained with Ferran Adria at Spain’s El Bulli and then moved to Ronda through a stint as a chef in Hacienda Benazuza’s sister restaurant, Sanlucar la Mayor near Sevilla.

It was there around 2010 that I had, possibly, my most memorable meal in Spain… a 25-course masterclass, basically one dish for every year Adria had been in charge of El Bulli. 

I’ve eaten at Bardal various times before it got a star and since it won two and, there is no doubt, Benito is approaching that legendary meal… and if it is just a taster you are after, try his diffusion restaurant, Tragata, just around the corner.

Four other restaurants are located nearby where chefs from Michelin star restaurants have previously worked.

Javier Pimentel, the owner of Taberna Almacen in Madrid is one of the most approachable people. He is a foodie who is constantly changing his menu and improving it.

Pedro Subijana is the godfather in Spanish cuisine. He taught him at Akelarre, San Sebastian’s true cathedral of three-star cuisine.

Dani Carnero from Kaleja in Malaga was his next stop to perfect his craft before finding his own way to work in Ronda.

This central restaurant is always crowded, particularly among locals. His soups and stews are delicious, and he offers four to five specials each day.

His ‘Mollete de Benaojan’ is a lip-smacking mini-bocadillo of blue cheese and local Iberian ham.

Jose Luis Pascual is the most exciting new chef in Ronda. He is a well-travelled chef who has worked in Michelin kitchens.

Ronda’s Quinto Tramo is the essence of Ronda. It is the hippest spot in the city.

The menu features a lot of local ingredients and dishes.

Jose’s parents ran a hat store in the town for many years (it was opened almost a century before) and now he and brother have finally taken over.

The restaurant is a bijoux when it comes to real estate, but the food and atmosphere are of a high standard.

Jose is a perfectionist who has spent time in Dani Garcia’s Marbella restaurant with three Michelin stars and before that at Tragabuches Restaurant in Ronda.

I like his fried shrimp tacos with onion guacamole & kimchi Mayonnaise. Also, a tuna Tempura taco w/ a hint of lime. Both provide a delicious taste explosion.

Jose Sanchez Junior and his dad run Tropicana in the popular restaurant.

Jose junior learned his trade in the Basque Region under the famous genius Martin Berasategui, who has three Michelin stars. He did this in the sala.

This is a lovely place to sit, with a good selection of vegetarian and non-gluten-containing dishes. They also have a few specials like a warm bowl of tripe and onions with chorizo.

Mi Manuela can be found in Plaza Carmen Abela close to the house of Cervantes.

The young couple that runs it are friendly, have a great eye for design and provide a good value.

The variety of rice dishes and daily specials are worth checking out.

The best was the freshest avocado and mango salad with prawns that Ruben, himself, prepared.

The wine list offers a good selection, while the setting on the plaza is perfect for an enjoyable meal.

You can’t go wrong with Pedro Romero. It is right next to the bullring, and it has a classic feel.

It is always busy, and filled with bullfighting memorabilia. The name of the street comes from the matador that founded modern bullfighting. This was the man who put Ronda in the spotlight.

The business is run by Carlos, Tomas and their daughters. Their grandfather, who is 90 years old, pops in occasionally to offer advice.

Spain has some of the best food in the world. The classics, such as bulls’ cheeks (carillada), and oxtails (rabo de Toro), are amongst its most popular dishes.

The bean soup as a starter is the heartiest of all dishes, with chorizo ham bacon black pudding and more goodness than you can shake a carrot at.

Entre Vinos offers over 100 different wines. Ronda offers more than a dozen wine by the glass. 

The tapas are excellent and the place is a lovely place to pass a few pleasant hours, especially on warm summer days.

Try the warm pastrami-topped bocadillo, if you can find it. It’s literally oozing with goodness thanks to avocado, lettuce, and mustard.

Nearby is Siempre Igual, which is exactly that ‘Always the same’, it’s a bloody excellent place to enjoy tapas and some excellent wine with friends.

 

The restaurant is run by a family of friendly Cadiz residents. They always offer some new and experimental dishes, as well as plenty of street tables to enjoy the atmosphere.

Barrafina is a great place to find the best of local produce. This charming location is just inside the ancient Arabic city walls, near the Almocabar gates.

Juan Ramirez Gil is the son of the original wine merchant and former champion in Spain at ham cutting. He focuses on using only the best ingredients.

The goat’s cheeses of Grazalema and the beef tataki, as well as the best hams in Ronda are also outstanding.

There are dishes like pulled pork on brioche, with dates and walnuts. Or a burrata spread with pesto with amazing local tomatoes.

Bar la Plaza is located in the charming Barrio San Francisco Square, where Joaquin keeps a tight rein on his bar. He also oversees the placement of the tables and chairs in the square.

Not just amazing value, this friendly chap from nearby Algodonales, serves up excellent value hot and cold tapas from just €1.70 each.

I particularly love his ‘salad of all life’ which doesn’t really do it justice, which is his version of Russian salad. I also loved his delicious callos (or tripe) for just €3, coming with black pudding and chorizo.

You can also try his slow cooked meat dishes like rabo de toro.

Bombay Spice is a great option if you’re looking for something truly exotic.

Talwinder is the owner, and he learned his trade at the Costa Blanca. It’s a popular option in the centre of town.

It is a restaurant that specializes in Indian cuisine from the Subcontinent.

Marvellous Muelle

You’re in for a surprise if you have never tried a restaurant on a train. El Muelle is a first class carriage in Arriate. But it’s also a train for your tastebuds.

It’s all thanks to Dutchman Frank Rottgering. His legendary restaurant is so popular that regulars travel from all over the coast, and even Sevilla, to dine there each week.

It’s easy to see why this place is so highly rated by Tripadvisor. It is both charming and atmospheric.

Chef Isa has become a favorite of both foreigners and locals. They love her generous portions, ability to change monthly, and daily specials.

Frank is by far the most talented, passionate, inquisitive, and interesting restaurateur of the Serrania.

Click here to read more Food & Drink News from The Olive Press.

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