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As you stroll past the pots of flesh in Puerto Banus, your heart will naturally sink.
When confronted with a crowd of holidaymakers in pasties, a group entitled Saudi teenagers or a mob of rubberneckers, the hackles immediately rise.
It’s not surprising that most expats flock to the north of Spain during this time.
You might find it difficult to believe that there are any decent restaurants in the area.
When you turn the corner, there he is.
The neutral colours and low-key lighting make it stand out.
It’s the first day of summer, so there’s a Lambo orange and a Roller bright blue parked outside. You’ll also have to fight your way through dozens of people waiting for the pizza place Picasso’s. The line is about 100m long and runs through the port.
Once inside, you will be able to breathe comfortably.
This is a spacious, hip restaurant with a great design.
It’s best to choose a banquette table in the middle or on the side. You may not want to sit near the front where the noise outside might be too loud.
A menu with a part Asian influence will offer a variety of dishes, both original and unusual. This will make you stand out among the crowd.
The menu is based on the seasons and it promotes its freshness.
Nef, a Maitre who has worked in the restaurant since Leone opened three years ago, told me this. We first met more than a decade earlier at one of Marbella’s finest Italian restaurants.
I trust this Tetuan Moroccan who is erudite and unflappable. He will guide my family to an excellent summer dinner.
He insists on ordering the duck spring rolls, which are so delicious because they’re confit, and come with hoisin.
Then on my son’s request we go for the sweetcorn ribs – a trademark of the Metro Group – which are very tender, as always.
Nef, despite being tempted to order a duck salad with melon, insists on the lobster salad and mango poached, served with apple and rocket.
He made a salad that was one of the best I have ever eaten.
Two lobster dishes were on the menu, along with salmon teriyaki. But we chose to try the lamb cutlets, which came served over a bed of fresh rocket, and were nicely seasoned.
The flat-iron wagyu was also excellent and offered a choice between three sauces. It was very tender and well braised.
The cheesecake with the blackberries was a big hit.
The DJ who starts at 8pm, and rotates with 3 others throughout the week is worth mentioning.
It’s nice to have a pleasant feeling that I don’t often think about.
On this visit, I’m on my second time since it opened 2022. The show has improved a lot. This punter purrs, not roars!
Leone C. Ribera, Local 44, Nueva Andalucía, 29660 Marbella, Málaga
Menu: leonebanus.com
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