Costa News Spain Breaking News | English News in Spain.
You would think that with a Napoli scarve and Maradona pictures on the walls, the pizzas in Tarifa’s Trattoria were good.
But owner Luciano Fabricio is taking no chances.
The Neopolitan cuts no corners when it comes to offering the best pizzas and pasta in town…and possibly the whole Costa de la Luz.
Having won the Best Independent Pizza award – one of only three in Andalucia – he makes sure to employ the best Italian chefs and doesn’t scrimp and save on ingredients.
Fabricio, the pizza chef at the restaurant who often serves up to 1,000 pizzas per day during the summer and up to 2,500 in the winter, says: “It’s an artform. It takes years to master it.”
“Trainees in Italy start as young as 14 and often do not touch any money for the first two years.
“In many cases, they do not make their first pizza until they reach the age of 19 or 20.”
Watching his pizza maker Aldo D’Apra make the dough in the morning for the following day is a real joy.
“Look, this business is serious and to make a good Napolitana, the dough must be very moist. Use very little yeast, and let the dough ferment for 24 hours.
The quality of the product is low because most people finish in two hours.
He continued: “You need also the best tomatoes, and of course, mozzarella. The one we buy at Trattoria costs €10 a kilo, some €7 or €8 more than anywhere else. I believe most people can tell the difference.”
These pizzas are the best I’ve had in Spain.
Li Mortazzi tua is a great alternative to Black Angus. It has pistachios and basil on top, as well as a buffalo mozzarella. It would be an understatement to say that I was full.
And if you happen to be Scottish (and can prove it) you can have the brand new McTominay half price at €8.50. The best part is that it does not include haggis.
Tasty Tarifa
Tarifa’s restaurants have improved in general over the last few years.
Due to the new arrivals of Merkado 27, MicMoc, and Almacen%, people jostle for position at lunch time, when they are getting onto or off of boats coming from Morocco.
Last year, a Basque restaurant named Atxa received a Bib Gourmet award from Michelin.
The chefs who run this hidden gem, located in a 19th-century townhouse, are Laura Garcia and Arturo Perea. They met when they worked at the three Michelin starred Martin Berasategui Restaurant in Basque Region.
After opening in 2022, the club has already won a Sol Award by Repsol and is on its way to a star.
On the way to the town, you can find some of the best restaurants in Tarifa.
Chringuito Carbones 13 is my favorite, while the Hurricane Hotel serves a famous buffet lunch that’s popular among locals and tourists.
Pacha Mama can serve up to 1000 people each day, even in the middle of summer.
It is linked to the Slow Food Movement and uses the best meats from free-range cattle, such as Simental or Galician Blonde. Each cow must be at least 5 years old, and have been naturally fed in grass fields.
Its maitre D. explains that this is the only way of imbuing the fat with its characteristic scent of grass and dairy.
If it is windy in Tarifa, Pacha mama is a great option. The garden is charming and there is a pool to keep the children entertained.
El Jardin, a charming garden restaurant at the Punta Sur, is also worth mentioning. It’s located near the Valdevaqueros beaches.
The restaurant is known for its innovative, fresh and original cuisine, created by the head chef Ivan.
He’s a big fan of local ingredients like tuna, retinto and steak but also comes up with a lot of daily specials.
The local tomatoes, with fresh basil and mozzarella are excellent, while the tuna sashimi – in a home-made ponzu sauce is a highly rated starter and very fresh.
Coastal trawl
One of the most interesting culinary trips in Spain is to move west from Tarifa.
Two decades ago, I visited the Costa de la Luz to write a travel piece for the Daily Mail.
I’d heard about the beaches and beauty of the coast but I didn’t expect great restaurants. This was, after all, Cadiz, one of Spain’s true backwaters and – statistically – the poorest province in the country.
But thanks to a series of locals – including the late hotelier James Whaley, who set up the Hurricane hotel and businessman James Stewart in Vejer – I was given the knowledge to help me root out a string of secret spots.
El Campero is my favorite fish restaurant in Spain.
I was sent to the hills as well, in places such as Santa Maria and Patria. There, I found a number of charming places, including Patria and Castilleria.
Then I was nudged to El Palmar and Zahora where you can find today the brilliant La Traina.
Then, I discovered the most charming, Antonio Hotel in Zahara de los Atunes. And even better, it had its own restaurant.
I returned to Ronda often, mainly after the launch of the Olive Press, in 2006.
The real success story – indeed, the biggest change over the last two decades – has been the way that Vejer became the definitive Dining Capital of Cadiz and one of the best in Andalucia.
Califa and 4 Estaciones will always be my favorite restaurants.
Vejer is known for its quality.
The Jardin de Califa is a true foodie destination, with people travelling from Spain and other countries to eat there.
This charming palm courtyard can only be reached by booking through the maze of corridors in the 16th-century Califa Hotel.
The ambiance is enhanced by the scent of jasmine, incense, and dama de noche.
The menu offers a delicious fusion of Spanish and North African cuisines, prepared by a multi-cultural kitchen with great skill. If I had to plump for one dish go for the ‘pastela’ filled with chicken, almonds and cinnamon, baba ganoush and shish taouk.
The group’s success is no surprise. They have opened several other restaurants, including the charming Fez in the center of the town.
The best place to eat is at the renowned Calle Corredera’s Califa Tapas. It has a great location and views that match the food.
Forget the name ‘tapas’ it has a much bigger mix of dishes and the service is always second to none.
Alberto Reyes’ 4 Estaciones, where he has been preparing delicious food for a decade, is a short distance away.
The food is nothing short of excellent and it is decidedly seasonal, with his ‘sorbete de gazpacho’ the real summer winner. This ice cream is made with olive oil, prawns and ham, free range eggs and black pepper.
I have had this feeling three times in the last few months, even though it’s been hotter than 40 degrees. I always forget how nice it is.
I love the Saam with King Prawn tail, guacamole and trout roe. It’s a variation of a dish that was made famous by Diverxo in Madrid, which has three Michelin stars.
A ravioli dish of wontons filled with crab and lobster is anything but your ordinary dish for these parts and it’s handled well and with panache … rich and delicious!
Esperanza macias is the new head chef who has been working in Aponiente restaurant, Andalucia’s best with three Michelin starred.
Hierbas by Patria also occupies a spot on the Corredura.
Ase and Thomas Donso are two of my favourite restaurateurs in the Costa de la Luz.
It is a great place for a taste of their Patria Restaurant, located inland about 10 minutes from Vejer.
Dane Thomas explains, the emphasis is on healthy dishes and that it is very different to Patria.
It is a much simpler menu to start with including a salad section, a sandwich section, and a section of sharing dishes including cod croquettes, a so-called ‘Canadian wrinkled potatoes’ with mojo sauce and alioli.
I instead tried the lightly fried aubergine with guacamole and pico de gallo, literally ‘roosters beak’ which is actually a Mexican dish of tomato, red pepper and onion.
It was delicious, as was the ‘bol de burrito’ a highly original and classic Mexican luncheon dish of refried rice, corn, carrot, cheddar, onion , chili beans, lettuce, gherkins, red peppers and more.
Thomas explains: “The idea here is that you mix all of it together, and bingo! You’ve got an amazing cracker.”
I’ve always wanted to start a sandwich restaurant. I like them as do most Scandinavians and I didn’t just want bread with a bit of ham and cheese… we are trying to do something different – quality bread from a mother doe Italian bakery.”
Zano Smash, by Kaos is another new place. This name is one of my favorites for restaurants in the last few years.
The restaurant is owned by Felipe, an Argentinian dynamo, along with Joseph, a Cambridge-based chef. Its USP is burgers and high quality meat.
Joseph was raised in a chef’s family and has been cooking ever since he was 16.
“I had my own hamburger van and I have worked in a few Michelin-starred establishments, so I think I know what to do,” he says.
Two brothers from Zahara, Antonio and Pablo, have been hired to run this restaurant.
I was sent out a ‘Kaos burger’ chosen by Pablo which came with three patties of retinto steak, Edam cheese and a special sauce which has gochujang pasta, kimchi and black garlic, lime and mayonnaise. It’s bloody hell. This is one helluva burger. This burger will not disappoint.
Hidden Zahora
In the small hamlet of Zahora about ten minutes from Vejer, you might pass it in a flash, but you’d be foolish to miss the place.
La Traina’s secret is hidden in a garden with lush foliage behind a high wall.
It was the brainchild of DJ Antonio, and his brother Alex who is a talented chef. They have a vast knowledge of fish, seafood, and their creations.
It is very close to the Barbate fishing port, making it one of the best spots on the coast for classic blue fin.
The tartare, however, is incredible. I also enjoy the sashimi and tartaki of Ventresca. It comes with not less than 12 generous pieces of tuna belly.
Every year they bring out so many amazing new things! There are many other chairs that look like fish heads.
The ajo blanco with blue fin was so well handled … the consistency of the almonds with a touch of sweetness and the saltiness of the small chunks of air dried tuna …
Pastel de atun with asparagus and payoyo cheese – real Cadiz – was like a pastel cabracho, very light, subtle although I’m not sure it warranted the strawberries on top
The next dish I tried was the Tarantelo with kohlrabi and parsnip pickles in a sauce made of chives, spicy tomato and chives.
A pudding of pine nuts with rosemary and juniper berries called appropriately postre La Breña comes from the nearby hills … and you can actually taste what you smell on nearby hikes … even more so when a glass of local moscatel and Pedro Ximenez is proffered by young waiter Christian a local chap who’s fascinated by the food and worked here for 4 years …
It’s from the local vineyard Bodegas Gallardo and has a tiny touch of orange zest … strange but oddly complimentary…
Enjoyable Antonio
Zahara de los Atunes is one of the most popular fish restaurants in Spain.
Antonio is the best place to eat, stay and enjoy the city. It’s not surprising that a town named for its fish would be so.
When I was working on the Sawday’s Travel Guide, I discovered it and included it in an article for the Mail.
It is run by sergeant-major Alejandro and has the same swagger as a top class restaurant you would find in San Sebastian, Madrid or Barcelona.
The best dishes to eat in Spain are the tuna dishes, served with panache. Jabugo ham, from the nearby area, is also spectacular.
You won’t regret it if you get a good table. But it isn’t easy to get a seat. Booking a hotel room next door can help.
The Olive Press Travel News is available here.
