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You’ll be able to feel the Spanish coast as you head north and pass Benidorm.
As the dense clusters high-rises in Murcia, Andalucia, Costa Blanca and south begin to thin out, more inviting beaches will appear. The air feels lighter, more relaxed, and overall more comfortable.
Denia awaits you as you finally approach the Montgo Mountain.
Forget Javea to the south, Denia is THE Valencian coastal town that doesn’t need to shout to be heard; it simply is – and has been for a very long time, for two millenia, in fact.
Romans laid down the foundations before the Moors left their indelible marks, particularly on the silent sentinel of the town: a sunbleached and timeworn fortress.
Castillo de Denia doesn’t aim to be a glossy tourist brochure. The castle is not a busy gift shop, nor does it have flashy signs. In the castle, you will find ancient stones and wild figs, as well as a dusty, quiet road that leads from the center of the city up to fragrant pine and rosemary.
Denia is revealed when you reach the top of the wall. It’s a mess of terracotta roofs, with the Montgo and turquoise sea framing one side.
Within the castle walls, the Museo Arqueologico offers a surprisingly intimate peek into the past, showcasing delicate pottery, Roman coins, and amphorae – echoes of lives lived long ago on the very spots where today you find lively beach bars and tapas joints.
Denia is much more than its castle. Denia offers beaches to suit all tastes. To the north, Les Marines is the classic summer beach – soft, golden sand, umbrellas for hire, and a backdrop of apartment blocks that somehow don’t feel offensive. It’s easy to use, convenient, and functional.
The south is where things start to get interesting. Locals flock to Les Rotes when they don’t want the sangria and sunbed crowd. This is a raw, rocky stretch of coastline with low cliffs, pebbly beaches, and clear water. A footpath winds along the coast, past 1970s villas and fishermen’s houses. If you continue walking, you will eventually reach Torre del Gerro – a watchtower that offers a breathtaking view.
In between, there’s a beach for every mood – Almadrava is quiet and low-key; Deveses has a touch more drama and is a favourite with kite surfers when the wind picks up.
Montgo
Montgo is a mountain you can’t ignore. Although it isn’t Spain’s tallest mountain (753 metres), it still dominates Denia and makes it feel important.
Locals call it the sleeping elephant – from some angles, you can see the head, the back, the tail. Climbing it is a sort of rite-of-passage. It has a solid, mythical presence.
There are routes for everyone, but the best trail is Cami de la Colonia – a manageable couple of hours through scrubland and over ancient stone terraces.
You will be surrounded by the scents of thyme, fennel and other herbs. On clear, sunny days the view can reach all the way to Ibiza. But beware! The last time I was following the trail a angry wasp buzzed and stung on my leg!
Denia, itself, is the type of place where people still live in old towns. This is becoming increasingly rare on this coast. In the Baix la Mar district – once the fishermen’s quarter – people still lean on windowsills to chat with neighbours, and sometimes you’ll still see octopuses hanging on lines to dry outside front doors.
No rush. Breakfast is slow, lunch is later, and the evening paseo – a ritual stroll before dinner – is taken seriously.
It’s easy to have a good time in the town. You can walk. Have a drink. Browse the municipal market (Mercado Central) if you’re in town in the morning – the cheese and tomato stalls alone are worth the visit.
From the marina, you can board a ferry to Mallorca, Ibiza or Formentera – the white boats of Balearia chug out daily during the warmer months.
You don’t need to travel far to enjoy the water.
Cova Tallada is a partly submerged sea cavern carved out by hand hundreds of years ago.
The moody, beautiful scenery is especially stunning if the light hits it just right. Snorkelling here is easy, as the water is crystal clear. It’s worth sitting on the rock to take it all in, including the way light bounces off the water, the smells of seaweed and salt, and the sound of the water lapping inside the cave mouth.
Creative cuisine
When it’s time to eat you are in the best place. Denia is a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, and has been since 2015. This usually means inflated menus and inflated prices. Even when the menu is fancy, it feels like a local experience.
If you want the high-end stuff, go to Quique Dacosta – a three-Michelin-star restaurant that’s about as close as you’ll get to experimental food without it turning into theatre.
For something more grounded, head to Casa Federico, El Pegoli or El Farallo, where the seafood is local, the rice dishes are slow-cooked, and the prawns – Denia’s own, fat and crimson – are served with nothing more than coarse salt and olive oil.
Calle Loreto is lined with tapas bars, some of which are in old townhouses that have shuttered windows or cool courtyards. Even the most basic bars will serve excellent calamari with a cold glass.
Denia’s museums are small and personal. The Toy Museum is unexpectedly moving – not because of the toys themselves (though the wooden trains and tin cars are charming), but because it speaks to a time when Denia was a working town, with factories and trade and hands-on craft. The town was known throughout Spain for the hand-made toys.
The Museo Etnologico, tucked into a 19th-century house, gives similar vibes – a glimpse of what life was like when people made a living drying raisins, not renting out holiday flats.
Denia has a calendar full of fiestas. Many seem to be designed to ignite things.
The fallas – where giant effigies are burned, as they do in nearby Valencia city – has already happened – but there is plenty to come.
Sant Joan, on the night of June 23/24, was traditionally a night of beach bonfires and mild chaos – locals jumping flames for luck and swimming after midnight.
The beach bonfires are no more – they were banned in 2022 – but a range of different activities have taken their place.
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From August 13 to 16, the town hosts its famous Moros y Cristianos festival – more pageantry than historical reflection, with mock battles, processions and a lot of cannon fire. The festival is loud, crowded, and very Spanish.
Denia is also a good base. Javea is a little glossier, but has the same stunning beaches, and English-influenced menus. Head inland to L’Albarda Gardens for a manicured version of Mediterranean horticulture. It’s all symmetry, shade and trickling waters.
Altea is an hour’s drive away and has whitewashed homes and a hilltop church. It makes for a great day trip, especially if you want something more artistic.
Denia’s success is hard to explain. It is not flashy. It’s not a showy thing. Perhaps that’s what the point is. You can climb a mountain, swim in a cave, eat prawns so fresh they were twitching that morning – and still be back at your digs in time for a quiet beer on the balcony.
Denia does not try to be perfect. It is what it is. Once you have experienced it, you will wonder why others aren’t doing the same. But then again – maybe it’s better that way.
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